I decided to install halogen inserts into the headlights, so I need to upgrade the wiring and use a couple of relays to take the load off of the headlight switch, and reduce voltage drop. I also decided to add a fuse to the main power wire which goes from the positive battery terminal to the starter, where it powers the whole vehicle. According to the Mega Fuse datasheet, a 150 A fuse will flow 400A for 3 seconds and 300A for 10 seconds, which is enough to start the engine. Some real world testing will show if this is actually the case. I have a 175A fuse on hand if I need a little bit more.
I wanted to make the install discreet, but still ensure it was accessible. I tucked the items inside the RH fender right next to the battery tray.
Coil Power – Eliminating the Resistor Wire
Most vehicles which came with points use a resistor wire to reduce the voltage & current to the ignition system to stop the points burning out. As I will be running electronic ignition (Pertronix III), I need to eliminate the resistor wire so that the ignition system gets a full 12 volts. I therefore had to pull through a new wire to replace the resistor. At the ignition switch I had limited options because I don’t have a new spade terminal, so I cut out the resistor wire and soldered the new wire onto the existing spade. Not beautiful, but functional and high integrity.
The installation instructions from Pertronix don’t mention using a relay for the ignition feed to the coil, and I am not 100% sure if it is necessary. Can anyone tell me what type of current a 0.32 Ohm coil will draw?
A New Set of Eyes!
Next job is to replace the existing LHD headlights with RHD versions. I decided to replace the sealed beams with halogen inserts at the same time – if I turn the headlights on, I want to see! You can see below a halogen insert on the left and a sealed beam on the right. In place, the difference is not as obvious as I expected. I bought Narva inserts as they have a reputation for quality, and they are an Australian company.
Once thing I noticed when I removed each headlamp was the adjustment screw bosses were all cracked. I guess this is because the plastic is old. I decided to try and save them; partly because I don’t have any new headlight buckets, and partly because I like a challenge. I used a small zip tie to pull each one back together, and I locked each one in place with a bit of CA glue and some kicker.
The screws were all firm again, and held their adjustment perfectly. I finished the installation so I now had 4 new lights 🙂
I got my trusty tube of Autosol out to polish the headlight surrounds, and first decided to have a quick look at the bumper bar condition. With minimal effort, you can see what happened. It looks like a large dose of elbow grease will sort out the bumpers some time in the future.
On to the headlight surrounds……you can see the before and after pics below. The after picture does not do justice to how good they look after being polished.
Power Steering Hoses
Another job this weekend was to connect up the power steering hoses. I bought a new high pressure hose from McVeys, however it was not correct. Trying to fit it made it clear that it was not going to work. Returning it from Australia is not practical, so I needed another solution. I decided to try and modify it to make it work.
I have a manual flaring tool, and looking at the angle of the flaring tool, it looked the same as the existing flares. I know they will not be as nice, but as long as they fit tight and seal, it was worth a try. I used the tool to hold the pipe while I cut it, however the first thing I did was stuff some fabric into the pipe so I could be sure that any swarf did not find its way into the pipe as it will damage the pump and steering box. I then cut the pipe to length and eliminated the incorrect bend. After deburring each end, I clamped it in the holder and hammered the punch in to flare the end. The pipe slipped through each time, so it took a couple of adjustments until I could get a flare.
The final result looked quite different as I also swapped the connectors over on the ends as the angles looked like they would actually work better.
The result was much nicer, and I used the angle on the steering box end to distance the hose from the exhaust manifold.
I then installed the low pressure return line, which gave me a complete system. I then filled it with Amsoil Power Steering fluid, and will now have to wait to see if there are any leaks.
Heat is always a big issue, so I am trying to manage it better using some modern technology. I bought some fibreglass headshield sleeve, and installed it on some items where they will be exposed to high heat. The photos show the transmission cooler return line, main positive power cable and the starter motor wiring loom. I also shielded the power steering low pressure line as it runs close to the exhaust manifold. I painted the power steering shield with black Hi Temp exhaust paint to make it more discreet (see pic above)
Rear Inner Front Wheel Arch
When I bought the car, the Rear Inner front Wheel Arch panels were missing.
I managed to find a pair in Canada and shipped them to Oz. Earlier n the blog you can see where I had to weld one of them to repair it. Well, the time finally came to install one – the LH side. I need to leave the RH side out until I get the evaporator sorted out.
The original panels had a strip of masticated rubber to seal against the fender. I don’t have any spare, so I improvised using some closed cell foam left over from the HVAC unit. I stuck it along the face which runs along the fender inner before offering it up.
The foam was just the right height. I ran a small bead of Mastic along the mating flange so there was no water ingress or rattling, and bolted it up. It went in really easy, and the overall result is great. Once I get the second side in I have some spray on rubberised sound deadener to spray in the front wheel arches to reduce noise.
That’s all for now. Thanks for reading, and please don’t hesitate to comment.