Fuel Pump, Dash Panel and Headlight Switch Repair

Fuel Pump Wiring

First job today was to finish off the Fuel Pump wiring. I need to remove the rear seat to enable me to run the wiring through to the boot.  Before I can remove the seat cushion I had to remove the left over fabric which has been sitting there since I bought the car.  There is a reasonable piece of turquoise leather, and what looks to be a full roll of the black and turquoise fabric.  There is also some vinyl which has been stitched together into what almost looks like it might be a head lining.  Not sure what I will do with this.

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I was then able to remove the seat cushion.  This is easy to remove – you simply lift the front edge and then slide it out  Once removed, it is clear that this is brand new trimming when I looked at the underside.  The frame was even painted black!

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To remove the seat back you need to release the tabs at the bottom.  Next you need to open the arm rest and pull the rear cover out which reveals two bolts which need to be removed.

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Before you can lift the seat back off you need to remove the valence at the top.  A couple of minutes having a look revealed that there were 4 bolts holing the valence down, access from the boot.  Once the valence is removed, you simply lift the seat back upwards and pull it forwards.

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Once the seat was out I could route the wires.  I also noticed that there were four 1″ holes in the floor which didn’t have any grommets in them,  Fortunately I have an assortment, and managed to find some which were the correct size.  I lifted the rear carpet and also found a couple of 3/4″ holes which needed grommets.

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Removing the seat also revealed a green wire which I recognized as the rear speaker wire.  I poked this through into the boot in the centre so I can connect it when I get around to buying new speakers.


The wires were tidied up along the rear door opening.  I then ran the wire through to the fuel pump and terminated it with a bullet connector.  I earthed the pump on a bracket and reinstalled the carpet.  I then pulled through the large wire for the air compressor.

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Once everything was done I put it all back together and gave it a quick vacuum.


Dash Panel

I enlisted the assistance of my wife and put the dash panel back into the vehicle.  Once I had connected everything up I connected a battery to see how everything powered up.

I couldn’t believe it  – nothing happened when I turned the key to Accessories or Ignition!  I had to leave as we had a family function, so for the next few hours I was distracted, trying to work out what I had done wrong.  When I got back I had a look and found that the barb on the power connector which was in the ignition switch connector had failed, so the power feed had been pushed out of the plastic connector.


Once the ignition switch problem was solved, it made me think I should check everything else.  The radio and power antenna worked great 🙂  The headlights worked fine, however the instrument lights were dead.

After spending over 1 hour playing with the headlight switch I was just about stumped.  No matter how well I cleaned the contacts and rotating disc, I couldn’t get any consistent conductivity through the dimmer rheostat.  I pulled it apart and put it back together 3 or 4 times with no success.  Through the process of elimination I worked out that although connected, the centre ring was not conducting to the rivet which was supposed to flow the current through to the other side of the ceramic frame.


I used my large soldering iron and some flux to create a solder connection between the two.  This time when I re-assembled the switch it worked perfectly.  Hooray.


When I connected it to the vehicle, I had instrument panel lights.  Not sure how well the picture below shows it, but you get the picture!  The gear selector globe seems too bright compared to everything else – I will go through my globes and see if I have a lower power one.


The day finished with the dash panel installed, and everything working except the clock, which I currently don’t have.  It is with a friend waiting for a rebuild so it actually works.

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Fuel Pump Logic

Working through and checking everything, I think that I had made a mistake with the fuel pump wiring.  I connected the tachometric relay with continuous power, which means it will run whenever it sees pulsing from the negative sensing wire (connected to the negative side of the coil).  I am now wondering if I should have connected it through a second relay using ignition power to trigger it so the fuel pump can only be live when the ignition is on.  This makes more sense.

I don’t really want to remove the dash paned again, but I fear I might have to.  😦


2 thoughts on “Fuel Pump, Dash Panel and Headlight Switch Repair

  1. Hey Tim,
    The Tachometric relay will only be live when it see’s coil switching. So the key must be in the crank or run position and the coil switching to activate power to the fuel pump. Should be no reason for a second relay 🙂


    1. Hey Mickster

      Maybe I am just a bit paranoid!

      I guess if the tachometric relay fails it would fail in the off position, so the worst that could happen would be a tow home. 🙂


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