Oil Pan & Oil Pump

We drove back from Adelaide yesterday, so a small detour was made to All American Auto Parts in Ballarat.  I picked up a new oil pan gasket for the Cad.

Today I started on the task of replacing it.  First, I had to get the car high enough for me to get under it on my crawler.  I had to jack it up because I am unable to start the engine as there is no oil in it.  I used 2 jacks to first lift up the front to the first stage, and then followed on to the second stage which was the vehicle ramps.

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First thing to remove is the starter motor.  Pretty straight forward – disconnect the wires and then undo the two bolts.

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The next thing to remove is the steering arm assembly.  This is pretty greasy as I only cleaned the top of it when I degreased the engine bay.  I decided this would be the opportunity to clean, check over and refurbish this.  I started by dropping the tie rod ends.  One of them was particularly tight on the taper, and needed a hard whack to break it loose.  I don’t have a pitman arm puller, so I decided to release the arm by opening up the steering rod and releasing the ball joint.

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Once this was done I could start on the oil pan.  Once the bolts and nuts were removed I pryed the pan off of the block.  I didn’t think I would see this end of the engine again so soon!

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I removed the oil pickup, windage tray and dipstick.

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I could then remove the oil pump.

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I had a look at the oil pan to see if I could see any signs of leakage.  I could not see anything significant.  I also had a look at what was in the bottom of the pan….there were some metal pieces and filings down there.  A little alarming, but not totally unexpected for a newly broken in engine.  I  had a look up past the crankshaft to the camshaft, and the lobes all look very fine indeed!

I winder where those metal filings come from?

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Back to the oil pump.  I pulled it apart and measured the clearance between the pump gears and the housing surface.  It was somewhere between 0.0035″ and 0.004″.  I used a flat piece of yellow tongue flooring as the sanding base because it was close to flat.  I attached apiece of 80 grit wet & dry paper with some staples and dropped some oil on it.  A light sand revealed that the pump surface was pretty flat, but slightly concave.

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Now that I had a clean surface, I measured the thickness with a micrometer.  The overall measurement is not important, just the detail.  It measured just a touch over 0.001″.

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I then set to work on sanding the housing, measuring a couple of times to make sure I didn’t go too far.  The final finish was great, and it measured almost 0.001″ below zero, which meant that I had removed 0.002″.  The final finish was nice, and I took the opportunity to finish the cover plate as well.

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I then took to the housing and gears with a Dremel to chamfer all of the sharp corners.  It was then ready to measure and reassemble.  I measured the clearance between the gears and the housing and found it to be 0.0015″.  Hopefully this will give the engine a little bit more oil pressure.

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The final touch was to update the base of the oil pump with today’s date.

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Before I re-installed the oil pump I cleaned up the gasket surfaces.  I removed the lower cover plate to give myself a little bit more room.

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I spent some time looking at the front corners to see if there was anything I could do to help make sure it didn’t leak (again!).  I noticed that the timing cover gasket protruded by 1 or 2mm.  I trimmed this flush with the gasket surface.

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Once the gasket surfaces were clean I installed the oil pump.  The pump drive shaft tang didn’t want to slide into the slot properly, so the oil pump didn’t sit properly.  I removed it again and realized that I had fitted the collar on top of the oil pump drive shaft upside down, and it had compressed the slot a little.  Rather than disassemble the oil pump again, I filed the tang on the drive shaft so it fitted into the slot.

I was then able to re-install the oil pump, followed by the windage tray and the oil pick up.

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Now that everything was sorted, I was back at the beginning with the oil pan.  I had to adjust the cork strips which wrap around the end bearing caps.  Once they were ready to go, I put a small bead of RTV silicone on the back of the cork strips and put them in place. I then placed a squirt if RTV in the corner area and also a thin smear on the cork to help the pan slide over.

I ran a smear of RTV on the pan gaskets, placed them onto the oil pan and them ran another smear of RTV on the top of the gaskets.  I noticed that the RTV seemed to be curing quickly, so I had to be fast.  I installed the oil pan, which was a bit of a juggle, and tightened all of the bolts and nuts.  I didn’t have much time to check everything stayed in place.  Within 10 minutes the RTV silicone had cured on the edges.  I checked everything as much as possible to make sure the gaskets stayed in place – as far as I could see it all looks good.  I guess I will find out when I start the engine again!

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One thought on “Oil Pan & Oil Pump

  1. I’m sure you would have been happier with a more obvious leak point, but well done with the oil pump and getting the pan seal in place with rapidly curing silicone.

    Like

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