We drove back from Adelaide yesterday, so a small detour was made to All American Auto Parts in Ballarat. I picked up a new oil pan gasket for the Cad.
Today I started on the task of replacing it. First, I had to get the car high enough for me to get under it on my crawler. I had to jack it up because I am unable to start the engine as there is no oil in it. I used 2 jacks to first lift up the front to the first stage, and then followed on to the second stage which was the vehicle ramps.
First thing to remove is the starter motor. Pretty straight forward – disconnect the wires and then undo the two bolts.
The next thing to remove is the steering arm assembly. This is pretty greasy as I only cleaned the top of it when I degreased the engine bay. I decided this would be the opportunity to clean, check over and refurbish this. I started by dropping the tie rod ends. One of them was particularly tight on the taper, and needed a hard whack to break it loose. I don’t have a pitman arm puller, so I decided to release the arm by opening up the steering rod and releasing the ball joint.
Once this was done I could start on the oil pan. Once the bolts and nuts were removed I pryed the pan off of the block. I didn’t think I would see this end of the engine again so soon!
I removed the oil pickup, windage tray and dipstick.
I could then remove the oil pump.
I had a look at the oil pan to see if I could see any signs of leakage. I could not see anything significant. I also had a look at what was in the bottom of the pan….there were some metal pieces and filings down there. A little alarming, but not totally unexpected for a newly broken in engine. I had a look up past the crankshaft to the camshaft, and the lobes all look very fine indeed!
I winder where those metal filings come from?
Back to the oil pump. I pulled it apart and measured the clearance between the pump gears and the housing surface. It was somewhere between 0.0035″ and 0.004″. I used a flat piece of yellow tongue flooring as the sanding base because it was close to flat. I attached apiece of 80 grit wet & dry paper with some staples and dropped some oil on it. A light sand revealed that the pump surface was pretty flat, but slightly concave.
Now that I had a clean surface, I measured the thickness with a micrometer. The overall measurement is not important, just the detail. It measured just a touch over 0.001″.
I then set to work on sanding the housing, measuring a couple of times to make sure I didn’t go too far. The final finish was great, and it measured almost 0.001″ below zero, which meant that I had removed 0.002″. The final finish was nice, and I took the opportunity to finish the cover plate as well.
I then took to the housing and gears with a Dremel to chamfer all of the sharp corners. It was then ready to measure and reassemble. I measured the clearance between the gears and the housing and found it to be 0.0015″. Hopefully this will give the engine a little bit more oil pressure.
The final touch was to update the base of the oil pump with today’s date.
Before I re-installed the oil pump I cleaned up the gasket surfaces. I removed the lower cover plate to give myself a little bit more room.
I spent some time looking at the front corners to see if there was anything I could do to help make sure it didn’t leak (again!). I noticed that the timing cover gasket protruded by 1 or 2mm. I trimmed this flush with the gasket surface.
Once the gasket surfaces were clean I installed the oil pump. The pump drive shaft tang didn’t want to slide into the slot properly, so the oil pump didn’t sit properly. I removed it again and realized that I had fitted the collar on top of the oil pump drive shaft upside down, and it had compressed the slot a little. Rather than disassemble the oil pump again, I filed the tang on the drive shaft so it fitted into the slot.
I was then able to re-install the oil pump, followed by the windage tray and the oil pick up.
Now that everything was sorted, I was back at the beginning with the oil pan. I had to adjust the cork strips which wrap around the end bearing caps. Once they were ready to go, I put a small bead of RTV silicone on the back of the cork strips and put them in place. I then placed a squirt if RTV in the corner area and also a thin smear on the cork to help the pan slide over.
I ran a smear of RTV on the pan gaskets, placed them onto the oil pan and them ran another smear of RTV on the top of the gaskets. I noticed that the RTV seemed to be curing quickly, so I had to be fast. I installed the oil pan, which was a bit of a juggle, and tightened all of the bolts and nuts. I didn’t have much time to check everything stayed in place. Within 10 minutes the RTV silicone had cured on the edges. I checked everything as much as possible to make sure the gaskets stayed in place – as far as I could see it all looks good. I guess I will find out when I start the engine again!