You may recall I had an issue with switching the engine off….that is not being able to do it. A quick bit of research showed that I needed to add a diode in the GEN warning light circuit. The diode needs to be between the alternator and the warning light, with the band closest to the alternator. I purchased 10A diode, and installed it near the spade connector. I put some heat shrink over it and then re-wrapped the loom so it looks like it belongs..
I remembered that the engine didn’t want to idle last time i ran it so I adjusted the mixture screws as per the workshop manual and increased the idle using the idle screw. I turned the key and it fired into life. More importantly I was able to switch the engine off again. Great success!!
I made some minor adjustments to the idle, and got it idling OK. I ran it for 5 minutes and was pleased to see that there were no leaks from the oil pan. Yes!
I noticed that after 5 minutes of running the fuel pressure gauge moves from 3.5 psi to zero. It did this last time I ran it even though the engine still runs OK. I can’t help but wonder if the aluminium fuel log is absorbing heat and vaporizing the fuel. I considered blocking off the heat crossover passage in the inlet manifold before installing it, and am now regretting not doing it. I may remove it and block it off sometime soon as I don’t want too much heat under the hood, especially under the carby. We don’t get below zero Celsius in Melbourne, so I don’t believe the heat crossover is so important.
I next decided to connect the power steering pump. I had left this disconnected during the camshaft break-in as I didn’t want any unnecessary complications. I installed the belt and tightened it up. Being overly cautious I started the engine, ran it for 5 seconds and switched it off again. I then proceeded to check for leaks. I was expecting something as you may recall I manually flanged the hose after modifying it. No leaks! Yes!
I started the engine again and topped up the power steering fluid. After turning the wheel from lock to lock I topped up the fluid again. The whole exercise was unexpectedly uneventful.
Front Brace and Engine Hood Latch
Now that everything seems to be working OK in the engine department it is time to re-assemble the front end. I will be happy to remove these items from the shed as I have been walking around them for many months!
I installed the front cross member but didn’t tighten any of the bolts as I am expecting that I will need to adjust this when I install the hood.
Next was the lower front pan, which is two pieces. A couple of minutes trying to install the two piece pan, and it was obvious that the lower tab had been bent flat. I have been looking at it for so long that I had got used to seeing it this way. I bent it back to where it should be and the pan holes lined up perfectly.
I installed the pan and tightened it all up.
I have one panel left, and can’t remember where it goes. I am really hoping that one of my readers can tell me where it goes – I went to the trouble of cleaning and painting it, but have no idea where it needs to go.
Front Bumper & Grille Assembly Installation
Now for the cool bit…..the face! I rigged up the bumper assembly using some nylon rope and lifted it with the crane (too heavy to lift using muscles)
I presented it to the front of the car and lined it up. 10 minutes later the 4 bolts were in and I removed the crane. The alignment was not right, so I used a car jack to lift or drop one end at a time. Working through it I discovered that the LH fender seems to be higher than the RH fender, or there is a twist somewhere. The great thing about these old cars is the panels are adjustable, which is also a bad thing. I spent 2 hours adjusting the LH headlight support and tightening the bolts that were never tightened when the last person assembled the front end after painting!!
Eventually I got a result which was a pretty reasonable compromise. Most people won’t notice that it isn’t perfect, so I decided to stop and be happy.
The list is getting shorter. Remaining items which need to be done:
- Wire up the LH Headlights
- Install Engine Hood
- Block exhaust crossover in inlet manifold
- Connect the brake booster to vacuum
- Fit Clock and screw in dash
- Install Steering Wheel and Transmission Indicator
- Check and bleed the brakes
- Investigate leak in Differential (axles or brakes?)
That’s all I can remember right now.